Here’s been a lot of backstage talk about optimism in the fashion capitals this spring/summer 2018 season, so much that it quickly started getting old. With the horrors that have filled the news just over the past week, it somehow feels unjustified.
While I love the idea of defiant glamour, putting a collection down to optimism is too easy — and it always comes with that whiff of escapism that just seems clichéd.
I was happy to get to Paris where some of fashion’s most pensive minds came up with a better way of justifying this overwhelmingly glamorous season. Rick Owens staged a monumental tower of water in the fountain of Palais de Tokyo for his otherworldly couture-like creations to walk around.
He told me his “brutalist lace and confection and meringue” were about recognising and accepting the discomfort that’s part of our reality and dealing with it through “beauty and positive energy and joy — the opposite of discomfort.” Kim Kardashian says you can only get rid of ugly pictures of yourself in your Google search by having new and better ones taken, and Owens’s approach was kind of the life answer to that: put something refined into the world and it might just eclipse the crude.